peaberry green

Tuesday, September 05, 2006

A Solo Summit of Longs Peak

On Thursday, July 27, 2006, I set out on a journey that 10,000 adventurers hope to complete each year. I feel totally gratified knowing that I'm one of only 3,000 people to reach the goal--the summit of Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park.

The hike from the trailhead at the ranger’s station to the summit is 8 miles each way. Most hikers begin the hike around 2:00am (that’s right!), so they can reach the summit and return below tree line before the frequent afternoon lightning storms. I knew from the get-go that to really enjoy this hike, it would be best to break it into an overnight backpacking adventure. So, we started the moderately strenuous part of the hike around 2:00pm on a Thursday afternoon, with the plan of hiking to and camping at the boulder field at mile 6 the first day and summiting the peak and hiking out the following day. Tom told me later that he was ready to say “F**K IT!” ten steps into the hike. Nice.

First things first—a little bit about Rocky Mountain NP. If you’ve ever experienced high-altitude, you know that just driving around in it is mildly strenuous, so you can imagine how climbing uphill for six miles with a heavy pack might be wicked exhausting. It feels like you are underwater to your chin and you can’t quite catch your breath. Totally weird.

So, on top of the regular weirdness you feel when at a high altitude, here we are, with a 40-50 pound-pack on each of our backs, on a steady uphill grade for about 3.5 hours. I’ll admit that at the beginning of every backpacking trip, especially starting uphill at the first step on the trail, I think to myself “This is WAY stupid!”

We stopped a few times during the first two miles of trail, which were a REAL challenge. Before your body settles into the weight and activity level, every step is a struggle that sends your hear fluttering and causes you to pant. Once you get your pace going, your heartbeat and breathing regulate, which allows you to maintain your pace and cover lots of ground enjoying every step forward—and I did!
The real reward is turning around and looking back at where you came from. YOU did it. You didn’t need a car or elevator or airplane to take you there. You put all the shit on your back that you need to maintain yourself for the next few days and you go. You go without a lot, and that’s part of the fun. It’s part of the reward. It allows you to appreciate the things in life that are always taken for granted. You’ll have your best fresh popped popcorn, the best fruit, the best beer of your life on a backpacking trip. That’s why I do it—I like to feel how good the simple things REALLY ARE.

We passed a herd of 50 or so grazing and playing elk around mile 4.5 and stopped for a break at mile 5. At this point, we had a great sunset-colored view of Longs Peak and the Keyhole. Tom was feeling pretty crappy right about then—typical altitude-sickness symptoms—headache, nausea, fatigue. About a half hour after our break, we reached the Boulder Field. It wasn’t very clear where to find our reserved campsite, since they weren’t marked, so we just claimed a little area and pitched our tent. I force-fed Tom some tuna fish and sent him to bed. The pit toilets at the Boulder Field were really funny. There were two toilets up on platforms with walls built around each one. When you were standing up, you could see the head of the person next to you. Pretty funny to watch some guy’s expression as he takes a wiz in a stinky pit toilet. One guy actually walked up to the toilet, opened the door and walked back down the steps and peed on a rock. Loser. We have to drink that water! As a matter of fact, I filtered 3 bladders-worth of water and it was delicious. Mmmmmmmpee.

As soon as the sun started to go down it got REALLY cold. The temperature probably dropped to about 40 degrees that night. The stars out there were AMAZING. I’ve never seen anything like it. We were miles from any light pollution and it was the most incredible night sky I’ve ever seen. It reminded me of the glow in the dark stars my sister stuck on her bedroom ceiling at my parents’ house. The stars were unbelievably bright.

The next morning, we woke up at the crack and got our shit together. We ate peanut butter on squashed hot dog rolls mixed with bugs for breakfast. (yes. I enjoyed it). I was SUPER jealous of the people next door who were having hot beverages. We probably should have carried a small stove rather than a flask of tequila. Yeah.

Despite his altitude sickness, Tom was in for trying for the Keyhole. I was glad. The .3 mile climb from the Boulder Field to the Keyhole was fairly labor intensive, even with only a daypack. It was all boulder-hopping and climbing with your whole body over giant hunks of rock. The sub-alpine trail was marked with cairns.

The most difficult portion of the hike began at the Keyhole, 6.2 miles into the hike. Unfortunately, Tom was not feeling well enough to go on, and decided to head back down to the Boulder Field. I didn’t come this far to turn back at the Keyhole and I wasn’t feeling the altitude, so I forged ahead. No technical climbing is required to reach the summit of Longs Peak during the last two weeks of July through the first two weeks of August. During the rest of the year treacherous ice formation and snowfall necessitates the use of specialized climbing equipment including, crampons and an ice axe. I was moving at a good clip. My muscles were tired from the previous day, but I had enough adrenaline going to keep a skip in my step. The quarter of a mile following the Keyhole involves a scramble along narrow ledges, many of which have sheer cliffs of 1000 feet or more just off the edge. During the next portion of the hike, I climbed over 1,000 vertical feet up the Trough (below) before reaching the most exposed section of the hike, the Narrows.

Just beyond the Narrows, the Notch signifies the beginning of the Homestretch (below) to the football field-sized, flat summit. It was TOUGH!

When I got to the point where I only had about 10 super steep-steps to the top, I counted out loud and said, “motherf***er” A LOT. I felt GREAT when I reached the top! I was the third woman to summit that day and people were surprised to see my small head when I came over that ledge. One guy said, “it’s pretty great…not much could make this better.” I said, “how ‘bout a cooler of ice cold beer?” Everyone agreed that an ice cold beer could DEFINITELY make this better. :)

I signed the register! (below)

I enjoyed a snack and a view of Chasm Lake, took some self-portraits and basked in all my glory. From the summit, I could see for 100 miles!

This guy I passed on the trail earlier took my picture at the very tippy top of Longs Peak.
Here’s me:

According to the National Park Service, one person, on average, dies every year attempting to climb the mountain. In the summer of 2005 a Japanese climber was blown off a ledge after reaching the summit. I’m glad I made it to the Summit of Longs Peak without blowing off. What a great experience!

All said and done, it took me about 3.5 hours, including some time to relax and enjoy the summit, to return to the Boulder Field. Tom had all the gear packed and ready to go. I filtered some water for the trip back to the ranger station and we got on our way. We covered the first 4 miles out pretty quickly, really without any breaks until mile 2. We were both super tired and my IT Band Syndrome was starting to act up. Hurrying out of there also gave me a slight case of "boot bang", caused by going downhill with a heavy pack and having your toes smash into the front of your boot constantly. Around mile .5, I started to limp--pretty damn good! I guess my injury really IS an overuse injury. Stupid running. What a dumb thing to do to your body.

Then the greatest feelings of all--taking your pack off, "OH GOD YES"--taking your boots and dirty socks off and wiggling your tired toes, "oooooOOOOOooo MY FEEEEEETTT"--sitting on the soft car seat, "FFEEEEEEELLSSSGGOOOOOODDD"--taking a hot shower, "AAAAAAAHHHHH"-- and drinking a cold beer, "MMM. THE GREATEST."


Goodnight Rocky Mountain National Park!
The End.



There is no reason not to follow your heart

Remembering that I'll be dead soon is the most important thing I've ever encountered to help me make the big choices in life, because almost everything--all external expectations, all pride, all fear of embarassment or failure--these things just fall away in the face of death, leaving only what is truly important. Remembering that you are going to die is the best way I know to avoid the trap of thinking you have something to lose. You are already naked. There is no reason not to follow your heart.

~ Steve Jobs' Stanford Commencement Speech